Eric of Arabia part 2

Those of you on the short list(family mostly) got a report on Dubai when I attended last years show. This is the 1 year anniversary of that trip marked by a return to the region.

In preparing for my latest trip to Dubai, in the United Arab Emirates, I had to take in to consideration the resonance from the last trip, one year ago. In essence, I was left feeling like I had spent a week in a frustrating repetition of history, i.e. all great things are built by men of simple means at the behest of men with vision and excessive means. I didn't have the greatest impression. To be honest, I did not wish to return this soon. But in the interests of my fledgling company and for the sake of the networking alone, I found myself accepting a contract to be a demo chef at the 3rd annual Dubai Seafood Expo.

After a week of preparations and a 16 hour flight(layover in Dulles) I touched down in the historic heart of Arabia, near the tip of the Arabian peninsula. (link to map of area for the geographically challenged or just plain interested). http://www.worldatlas.com/webimage/countrys/menewzz.gif

Although this region is historically important, you cannot feel much of the history living in Dubai's super modern architecture, much of it world class. The exception is found in Dubai's historic downtown, or Bur Dubai (note the spelling which will become relevant later). Here is a city map of dubai that will show many of the buildings and neighborhoods I discuss here.
http://www.dubai.ie/Dubai_Info/upload/File/01-Map_of_Dubai.jpg you might consider opening it in a new window and referring back to it throughout the narrative.

In the 1960's Dubai discovered the hidden wealth that has enriched many of the nations of the Middle East, Oil. Thanks in part to a visionary Sheik, with unlimited funds and a creative flair par excellence, as well as a higher level of tolerance for western heathenistic practices, Dubai as we know it today begun to clear the drawing boards and rapidly grow towards world relevance as one of the greatest architectural cities ever built. And to top it off, like Vegas, it has sprung from the sands of the desert that still stands guard from invading armies. This has not however, kept the mobs of Ex patriots from taking their piece of the action. And as this was a part of the vision to begin with, Europeans and North Americans will find that they are welcomed and valued much of the time on their visit.

This year, the developments seem more complete and more a real city rather than a shell of what was only a vision just ten years before. Dubai is shaping up quickly with many significant developments either finished or slated for grand opening in 2010.

As I arrived at the regions busiest airport(soon to be the worlds busiest) I braced myself for the sense of isolation and nonwesternness that fouled my last trip and caused me to complain of the lack of infrastructure and the poor levels of customer service. What I had not taken into consideration was that it takes time to teach a child to eat with utensils and run and swim. As with a young child, Dubai had yet to reach a level of services that would keep spoiled westerners happy. This has not entirely corrected itself as I will explain shortly, but in great part is improving.

Last time I stayed in the downtown area, Bur Dubai(as seen on our map). This residential area is home to the historic district and is a great place to visit at least once. The Dubai Museum is worthwhile and tells the history of Dubai better than I will attempt. Also textile and Silver Souks(markets) are located here as well as Pakistani shops and Indian Family businesses by the tens of thousands. At some points it resembles a bustling (and I mean very bustling) area of New York, with lights almost as bright as Times Square. All in all an exciting spot to visit, but one to be avoided for travellers looking for accomodations. It is too local for Westerners to find great comfort.

This time I stayed in the Jumeirah Beach Area also known as "The Walk" for the neighborhood development with sidewalks around Dubai's nearly completed Marina project. It basically involves 40 or so High Rise buildings with a few true skyscrapers(100 stories plus) and a significant development of shops, bars, restaurants and a world class beachfront with the warmest clearest water I have ever been in. It is a far sight more comfortable and "5 Starrish" than Bur Dubai and helped ease my worries abit. The next step in comfort came with our room. As I was staying together with colleagues, we opted to rent an ocean front apartment for the week. The choice was the Oasis Beach Apartments and basically ended up being a 4 bedroom, 3000 foot apartment with top furnishings and an incredible view of the Palm Jumeirah. (again see map) All in all, very comfortable!

Night one was spent going to the area around the Burj Dubai(this is the place where I said to notice the spelling) BURJ DUBAI not BUR DUBAI. The Burj Dubai is the worlds tallest skyscraper at approximatley 2680 feet or 800+ meters! It in no way resembles Bur Dubai and is a spectacular development which includes the new super 5 star hotel, The Address, The Burj Dubai, The Palace Hotel, A large souk and the worlds largest mall, The Dubai Mall. Every night they do one of the most spectacular light, water and music shows I have ever had the chance to witness. It is exceptional on a very high level. I challenge anyone who sees it to not be impressed. We had cocktails at the lounge at the top of The Address. 63 stories above the ground, we were still at knee level to the Burj Dubai. For dinner we ate at the Palace Hotel in a tent near their pool area and enjoyed a light meal of traditional Arab dishes like kefteh and hommous. We had a few drinks and headed home for the night, truly awed.

After the Dubai Seafood Expo show each day we would head for the sea and enjoy a beautiful sunset while lounging in the warm waters of the Persian Gulf. Then we would find somewhere to eat and have drinks at Buddha Bar or at the very cool beachside bar/club/pool/lounge/restaurant Barasti. This spot gets top marks in my book for its range of available entertainment choices including stages and DJs and volleyball courts. The drinks were cold and the Shisha http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hookah was yummy. I always thought this was a tobacco pipe, but it is not. It was fun to have drinks and pass the Hookah.

Mornings came early, meals were light, the scenery was spectacular and the city of Dubai began to rise in my rankings from my least favorite destination to one of profound beauty and a destination to be well planned and enjoyed thoroughly. I lost weight thanks to the light fare and the hot days. I enjoyed both hard work, and hard play, including one great evening celebrating our colleagues birthday.

In all, I can't wait to go back to this amazing place. I want to dive further into the culture that goes from Bedouin tribal to ultra modern city in just 2 generations. What did it? Why is Dubai one place where you can experience western asia without much fear of reprisals for your nationality? Why do places like Beirut, Abu Dhabi, Bahrain, Quatar and a few others defy the standard western logic of the region. Can we see shadows of the past greatness of the Ottoman Empire emerging in places like these? Have the people of these places intentionally defied the portrayal of this conflicted region by our western media? I think not and I think so at the same time. You still see the clothing and the camels, the segregation of gender and the remnants of the old culture in places like Bur Dubai. You still feel the winds rush in off the desert heavy with the history around us. It is a haunting sensation, that can be both narcotic or repulsive depending on your perception. It can pull at your heart like the eyes behind the veil or it can push you back with the force of a bomb blast.

It is both peaceful and volatile. But it will not leave you unaffected. You will be better for having been there. It is like a sudden storm that drenches anyone caught out in it. You can still feel it's influence long after you have returned to your home. And that makes it special no matter how you feel later.

Peace...Eric